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Dive into the stories and insights of Phil Wortmann, your guide to adventure.

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Ep. 42 - The Power of Long-Term Projects

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Samsara, Pikes Peak

Valdez Ice Climbing

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Transcendental Linkup: Five routes up to 5.12a totaling 2,400′ on Pikes Peak in 21 hours

Avid Colorado Springs ice climber shares passion for conquering frozen waterfalls

Drop the Mic: Long Mixed Testpiece Outside Ouray

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A sketchy scramble brought me to a nice perch to watch some of the 719’s young guns cruise Boss Dogs variation at Hully. This links glacier pons to the upper roof via the second pitch of Final Boss. It’ll do til the ice comes in. @zach_ranck @tom_gibbons_iii @will_quillman
l
BTW- please don’t toprope Hully for a week or two. Let it form up!

A sketchy scramble brought me to a nice perch to watch some of the 719’s young guns cruise Boss Dogs variation at Hully. This links glacier pons to the upper roof via the second pitch of Final Boss. It’ll do til the ice comes in. @zach_ranck @tom_gibbons_iii @will_quillman
l
BTW- please don’t toprope Hully for a week or two. Let it form up!

Point em downhill and haul ass.

#csprings
#pikespeak

Point em downhill and haul ass.

#csprings
#pikespeak

“Furloughed” AI4, M6ish, 3 pitches. PG 13

Will and I checked out these blobs of ice high in the Sunshine Wall. The wide crack was a little much, so we sent the leftward line. Good fun outing.

“Furloughed” AI4, M6ish, 3 pitches. PG 13

Will and I checked out these blobs of ice high in the Sunshine Wall. The wide crack was a little much, so we sent the leftward line. Good fun outing.

Blind Assumption is an all-time Colorado adventure. My favorite alpine ice/mixed route with damn good folks.

Blind Assumption is an all-time Colorado adventure. My favorite alpine ice/mixed route with damn good folks.

The REAL Will Quill flashing “The Bear” this morning at the Gully for the second ascent. The ice ain’t gonna know what hit it this winter. @will_quillman

#719alpine #nwalpine #CSprings #mixedclimbing #drytooling

The REAL Will Quill flashing “The Bear” this morning at the Gully for the second ascent. The ice ain’t gonna know what hit it this winter. @will_quillman

#719alpine #nwalpine #CSprings #mixedclimbing #drytooling

@nwalpinegear we’re all sad to see you go. Even though you were based out of the PNW, you guys always matched well with the CSprings vibe. Thanks for the support over the years and we wish you well on your future endeavors! Hop on their site and grab a sweet deal before it’s all gone!
#nwalpine #719alpine #climbsoftsprayhard

@nwalpinegear we’re all sad to see you go. Even though you were based out of the PNW, you guys always matched well with the CSprings vibe. Thanks for the support over the years and we wish you well on your future endeavors! Hop on their site and grab a sweet deal before it’s all gone!
#nwalpine #719alpine #climbsoftsprayhard

Pitch four of Katana Ridge is pretty aesthetic.
Drew and Tom topping out the blade.

#719alpine

Pitch four of Katana Ridge is pretty aesthetic.
Drew and Tom topping out the blade.

#719alpine

Best of its grade in the square state.
Finger Fanger on Bigger Bagger

#Sandbag #719alpine @nwalpine

Best of its grade in the square state.
Finger Fanger on Bigger Bagger

#Sandbag #719alpine @nwalpine

The OG Route (Tschappat-Miller) on Electric Point. 5.10, 3p. “Somebody” forgot their rock shoes and had to sit in the backseat in their approach shoes all morning. Four star line. Another Tip of the hat to the Golden Age crew.

#719alpine #nwalpine #drivepikespeak

The OG Route (Tschappat-Miller) on Electric Point. 5.10, 3p. “Somebody” forgot their rock shoes and had to sit in the backseat in their approach shoes all morning. Four star line. Another Tip of the hat to the Golden Age crew.

#719alpine #nwalpine #drivepikespeak

Killer cracks are abundant on Katana Ridge. 5.10, 300’ at 13k. Very Aesthetic line with a memorable topout. Team send with @mrmann_719. I had to go with some anti-fascist music, because well you know.

. #719alpine #nwalpine #drivepikespeak #pikespeak #fourteener #

Killer cracks are abundant on Katana Ridge. 5.10, 300’ at 13k. Very Aesthetic line with a memorable topout. Team send with @mrmann_719. I had to go with some anti-fascist music, because well you know.

. #719alpine #nwalpine #drivepikespeak #pikespeak #fourteener #

A day late for Total abandon. And, with the temps this week I’m guessing that’s that. The first pitch was absolutely perfect, with bomber hero sticks the whole way. Pitch two however was a rainy chandelier and a bit too risky to third class, at least for me. Alpine rock season it is.

#719alpine #nwalpine #drivepikespeak #cordless #fourteener #pikespeak

A day late for Total abandon. And, with the temps this week I’m guessing that’s that. The first pitch was absolutely perfect, with bomber hero sticks the whole way. Pitch two however was a rainy chandelier and a bit too risky to third class, at least for me. Alpine rock season it is.

#719alpine #nwalpine #drivepikespeak #cordless #fourteener #pikespeak

Beanstalk scramble for some altitude. Still plenty of snow on the approach and descent, and the cracks are wet from the meltout. Should be better next week. Fun cardio!

#719alpine #nwalpine #drivepikespeak

Beanstalk scramble for some altitude. Still plenty of snow on the approach and descent, and the cracks are wet from the meltout. Should be better next week. Fun cardio!

#719alpine #nwalpine #drivepikespeak

RIP to a real San Juan adventure.
“Blood and Spit” M8 trad

Noah and I climbed the line over a decade ago on his 21st birthday. Man, was it rowdy. Noah led the first pitch, and was almost to a good belay ledge when he dislodged a bowling ball sized rock and rode it thirty feet until he hit the slab, severely cutting one of his fingers in the tumble. He was adamant we still finish, so I finished the pitch and led the second. An overhanging finger crack led me into a blank chimney, too big for the cams we brought. Luckily it was short and emptied out onto an unprotectable snowy slab. Lots of fun in crampons.

It has stood since, unrepeated and unloved. Apparently the first pitch fell off, so it will have to remain that way, like a sealed tomb.

RIP to a real San Juan adventure.
“Blood and Spit” M8 trad

Noah and I climbed the line over a decade ago on his 21st birthday. Man, was it rowdy. Noah led the first pitch, and was almost to a good belay ledge when he dislodged a bowling ball sized rock and rode it thirty feet until he hit the slab, severely cutting one of his fingers in the tumble. He was adamant we still finish, so I finished the pitch and led the second. An overhanging finger crack led me into a blank chimney, too big for the cams we brought. Luckily it was short and emptied out onto an unprotectable snowy slab. Lots of fun in crampons.

It has stood since, unrepeated and unloved. Apparently the first pitch fell off, so it will have to remain that way, like a sealed tomb.

17+ years ago. Time flies.
Fall, 2007

17+ years ago. Time flies.
Fall, 2007

To my public servant homies- teachers, soldiers, medical professionals, first responders- keep your heads up. These are scary times and the news every day is more depressing. Don’t lose sight of what you signed up for. You serve your country for low pay, but get blamed for all of society’s ills. That’s showbiz.

When I was in basic training, we had an inspection from a full-bird colonel, who asked the kid next to me if he was being paid enough. The kid said “yes sir!” but the Colonel corrected him. He said that was not true. Soldiers are intentionally paid poorly and that was the point. He explained that if the job paid adequately, then it would attract greed, not passion. And, those are not the folks who sacrifice for the greater good.

Our country needs selflessness now more than ever. Don’t let the headlines turn us against each other. (That’s their goal.) Soldier on.

To my public servant homies- teachers, soldiers, medical professionals, first responders- keep your heads up. These are scary times and the news every day is more depressing. Don’t lose sight of what you signed up for. You serve your country for low pay, but get blamed for all of society’s ills. That’s showbiz.

When I was in basic training, we had an inspection from a full-bird colonel, who asked the kid next to me if he was being paid enough. The kid said “yes sir!” but the Colonel corrected him. He said that was not true. Soldiers are intentionally paid poorly and that was the point. He explained that if the job paid adequately, then it would attract greed, not passion. And, those are not the folks who sacrifice for the greater good.

Our country needs selflessness now more than ever. Don’t let the headlines turn us against each other. (That’s their goal.) Soldier on.

The Springs lost a legend in Bob Robertson.

Just about anyone who climbs in the Springs, hell in Colorado at all, has likely climbed one of his routes. He was truly prolific and I’m sure the number of his FAs number in the thousands.

I thought it fitting to post one of my favorite routes of his in honor of his dedication to exploring and sharing. My favorite #bobroute is probably Hidden Lines on Pikes Peak. It’s a true adventure and a testament to his vision.

Off belay Bob.

The Springs lost a legend in Bob Robertson.

Just about anyone who climbs in the Springs, hell in Colorado at all, has likely climbed one of his routes. He was truly prolific and I’m sure the number of his FAs number in the thousands.

I thought it fitting to post one of my favorite routes of his in honor of his dedication to exploring and sharing. My favorite #bobroute is probably Hidden Lines on Pikes Peak. It�’s a true adventure and a testament to his vision.

Off belay Bob.

@will_quillman took advantage of the warm temps to grab the third ascent of Holy Moly (M7) in style this morning.
Thanks for the good times @spect_okular @joshhailey9999 #719alpine

@will_quillman took advantage of the warm temps to grab the third ascent of Holy Moly (M7) in style this morning.
Thanks for the good times @spect_okular @joshhailey9999 #719alpine

Sweet new line up in the Gully last weekend with Geoff.
#Final Boss” M8ish. Idk, I can never seem to nail down mixed ratings. Could be easier… or a little harder.
Great third pitch finish after pitch two.
Get it son!

Sweet new line up in the Gully last weekend with Geoff.
#Final Boss” M8ish. Idk, I can never seem to nail down mixed ratings. Could be easier… or a little harder.
Great third pitch finish after pitch two.
Get it son!

Unable to pound that piton in a single swing?
You might need a Mann Hammer.

Can’t seat a bolt in two swings?
You might need a Mann Hammer

Are puny alloy hammers slowing the development of that new area you’ve been working on?
You might need a Mann Hammer.

Seriously, this thing swings with authority. Hit up my boy Geoff Mann and order yourself one!

geoff@massifcustommetals.com

#steelisreal #handcrafted #humanmade

Unable to pound that piton in a single swing?
You might need a Mann Hammer.

Can’t seat a bolt in two swings?
You might need a Mann Hammer

Are puny alloy hammers slowing the development of that new area you’ve been working on?
You might need a Mann Hammer.

Seriously, this thing swings with authority. Hit up my boy Geoff Mann and order yourself one!

geoff@massifcustommetals.com

#steelisreal #handcrafted #humanmade

Stompin around in the woods

Stompin around in the woods

Zebs and Hero Ridge linkup. Bottomless pit scrambling. #cordless #719alpine #nwalpine

Zebs and Hero Ridge linkup. Bottomless pit scrambling. #cordless #719alpine #nwalpine

“Zipped” is a fun new two pitch rock climb in the Hully Gully neighborhood that clocks in around 5.10a. Grab a handful of QuickDraws and check it out!

“Zipped” is a fun new two pitch rock climb in the Hully Gully neighborhood that clocks in around 5.10a. Grab a handful of QuickDraws and check it out!

I spent a few days with good friends over the last year bringing this line to life. There were a few very large rocks that had to be relocated, but now it’s shining. There’s always a chance someone could have climbed it before, though I don’t think it would’ve been enjoyable.

The “Fairy Tale Direct” is a great multipitch moderate with great gear and good rock, all within ten or@fifteen minutes from the road. I hope some folks are able to enjoy it. @whiskeysean @mattsellick_mtn
#719alpine #climbsoftsprayhard #nwalpine

I spent a few days with good friends over the last year bringing this line to life. There were a few very large rocks that had to be relocated, but now it’s shining. There’s always a chance someone could have climbed it before, though I don’t think it would’ve been enjoyable.

The “Fairy Tale Direct” is a great multipitch moderate with great gear and good rock, all within ten or@fifteen minutes from the road. I hope some folks are able to enjoy it. @whiskeysean @mattsellick_mtn
#719alpine #climbsoftsprayhard #nwalpine

My boy’s first #fourteener.
#MtElbert at seven years old and he might be hooked.

My boy’s first #fourteener.
#MtElbert at seven years old and he might be hooked.

Railroad Buttress, 5.10ish? 3 pitches. I think it was a Harvey Miller line but not sure. Fun day out with @timbeiber

Railroad Buttress, 5.10ish? 3 pitches. I think it was a Harvey Miller line but not sure. Fun day out with @timbeiber

Great news- Annual pass holders will no longer need to purchase a limited entry permit if they enter between the hours of 730-9am. Thank you to the PP hwy management team for hearing us out and making such a reasonable accommodation for locals.

I understand this does not help those coming from out of town to climb or ski, but it’s a start. In the future, the shuttle system may evolve to be more helpful to that demographic (hopefully).

Stay safe and be kind and responsible.

Great news- Annual pass holders will no longer need to purchase a limited entry permit if they enter between the hours of 730-9am. Thank you to the PP hwy management team for hearing us out and making such a reasonable accommodation for locals.

I understand this does not help those coming from out of town to climb or ski, but it’s a start. In the future, the shuttle system may evolve to be more helpful to that demographic (hopefully).

Stay safe and be kind and responsible.

Quick lap on Castleton’s North Face with Casey, a little over twenty four hours away door to door. Perfect weather.

Quick lap on Castleton’s North Face with Casey, a little over twenty four hours away door to door. Perfect weather.

Great adventure recently with @noahmckelvin establishing a new hard route in Hully Gully.

#719alpine #mixedclimbing #drytooling #iceclimbing @iceclimbing

Great adventure recently with @noahmckelvin establishing a new hard route in Hully Gully.

#719alpine #mixedclimbing #drytooling #iceclimbing @iceclimbing

Gettin rowdy in the Gully.

#719alpine
#iceclimbing #mixedclimbing @iceclimbing @nwalpinegear #pikespeak #climbsoftsprayhard

Gettin rowdy in the Gully.

#719alpine
#iceclimbing #mixedclimbing @iceclimbing @nwalpinegear #pikespeak #climbsoftsprayhard

Trails

Trails

Backcountry ice on a cold day

#719alpine
#redneckchamonix
@whiskeysean

Backcountry ice on a cold day

#719alpine
#redneckchamonix
@whiskeysean

Lake city new years

Lake city new years

I really enjoyed a great conversation on responsible route development with some front range crushers last night at the AAC museum. Thanks for the invite folks, and to all who attended.

I really enjoyed a great conversation on responsible route development with some front range crushers last night at the AAC museum. Thanks for the invite folks, and to all who attended.

Ode to the struggle

#grind #alpineclimbing #rockclimbing #iceclimbing #mixedclimbing #719alpine

Ode to the struggle

#grind #alpineclimbing #rockclimbing #iceclimbing #mixedclimbing #719alpine

Great day to explore an old classic above town. The second pitch was spectacular and one of the funnest leads I’ve done in a while. Well worth the slog.

Great day to explore an old classic above town. The second pitch was spectacular and one of the funnest leads I’ve done in a while. Well worth the slog.

“The Sanctum” is a really fun area to explore. It’s like an Old Stage rd version of mini-golf. The broken nature allows you to link up a number of different crack systems and piece together whatever kind of adventure your day (or afternoon) can allow. You can easily find an extra credit pitch or two after running a lap on the Martyr, Pearly Gates etc.

“The Sanctum” is a really fun area to explore. It’s like an Old Stage rd version of mini-golf. The broken nature allows you to link up a number of different crack systems and piece together whatever kind of adventure your day (or afternoon) can allow. You can easily find an extra credit pitch or two after running a lap on the Martyr, Pearly Gates etc.

Total Abandon is currently in good mixed condition. Bring a single rack and handful of stubbies to medium length screws. #719alpine #coldfearwhereyouatbro #redneckchaminix @iceclimbing

Total Abandon is currently in good mixed condition. Bring a single rack and handful of stubbies to medium length screws. #719alpine #coldfearwhereyouatbro #redneckchaminix @iceclimbing

Red wall action awhile back.
Glen Cove, Pikes Peak

Red wall action awhile back.
Glen Cove, Pikes Peak

We caught a little Martyr Magic last week. Serious Alpine vibes.

#rockclimbing #alpineclimbing #tradclimbing #719alpine

We caught a little Martyr Magic last week. Serious Alpine vibes.

#rockclimbing #alpineclimbing #tradclimbing #719alpine

“Drop the Mic”
M8, 10 Pitches, 1400’
Camp Bird Road, Ouray Co.
Nov 2021

Cold temps are coming!

#iceclimbing #alpineclimbing

“Drop the Mic”
M8, 10 Pitches, 1400’
Camp Bird Road, Ouray Co.
Nov 2021

Cold temps are coming!

#iceclimbing #alpineclimbing

Hero Ridge to the rim with Mr Jay Fizz.

#alpineclimbing #rockclimbing #pikespeak #pikespeakalpineschool #719alpine

Hero Ridge to the rim with Mr Jay Fizz.

#alpineclimbing #rockclimbing #pikespeak #pikespeakalpineschool #719alpine

JD Merritt on pitch three of “Three Dragons” June of 2015.

JD Merritt on pitch three of “Three Dragons” June of 2015.

Bottomless pit adventuring below the hero traverse. We found a nice 500’ line with a few good challenging sections up to 5.9 or10-. I imagine it’s been done before, perhaps a few times.

Bottomless pit adventuring below the hero traverse. We found a nice 500’ line with a few good challenging sections up to 5.9 or10-. I imagine it’s been done before, perhaps a few times.

Bigger Bagger with Steve and Ari.

Hot take: Finger Fanger is the best 5.9 crack multi pitch in the state. There I said it.

Bigger Bagger with Steve and Ari.

Hot take: Finger Fanger is the best 5.9 crack multi pitch in the state. There I said it.

Matt, Sean, and I went up to explore a line on the Fairy Tale Wall that I have scoped for a few years. Soon after embarking on the great looking third pitch I found numerous death blocks and changed course. Fortunately there was a thin crack out right that provided plenty of spice. Overall, a great outing with over four hundred feet of quality fun.

Matt, Sean, and I went up to explore a line on the Fairy Tale Wall that I have scoped for a few years. Soon after embarking on the great looking third pitch I found numerous death blocks and changed course. Fortunately there was a thin crack out right that provided plenty of spice. Overall, a great outing with over four hundred feet of quality fun.

I always thought it would be great to climb Ice on Pikes for the 4th of July, but never thought it would really happen. Not only was it in, but it’s fatter than I’ve ever seen it. I’m guessing the wet, cool temps of June is the cause. I’m pretty sure Total Abandon and Blind Assumption haven’t had this many ascents in about a decade. The “Old 6” even had several sections of climbable ice on it. I think “Blind Luck” will still be in great shape for a few more days as well.

#719alpine #pikespeakalpineschool @iceclimbing

I always thought it would be great to climb Ice on Pikes for the 4th of July, but never thought it would really happen. Not only was it in, but it’s fatter than I’ve ever seen it. I’m guessing the wet, cool temps of June is the cause. I’m pretty sure Total Abandon and Blind Assumption haven’t had this many ascents in about a decade. The “Old 6” even had several sections of climbable ice on it. I think “Blind Luck” will still be in great shape for a few more days as well.

#719alpine #pikespeakalpineschool @iceclimbing

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